Innovative valorization of European industrial hemp short fibers in high market value sustainable yarns for apparel (Hemp4Future)

The textile industry is not sustainable as massive amounts of non-renewable resources andwater are consumed during the processing of the main raw materials polyesterand cotton and a lot of waste that is often not being recycled is disposed off.In the context of increasing policy pressure and customers’ expectations, hempfibers provide an excellent opportunity as a more sustainable and economicallycompetitive alternative. Industrial hemp is a growing market worldwide,with many industrial applications. The full European market potential for hemptextiles has however not yet been tapped. This is mainly due to technologicallimitations in specific stages of the long and complex hemp value chain. Presently, the short hemp fibers (50 % of the total fiber volume) are processed into rather coarse yarns which are only suitable fortechnical applications with limited market value. Finer yarns are processedfrom blends that do not exceed 50% hemp. Hemp4Future will set up a process forthe valorization of large volumes of short hemp fibers in high market valuefine yarns for apparel. This will drive the further development of the hempindustry in Europe. Firstly, a fiber preparation treatment will be developed that ensures optimal fiber properties and efficient processability.Optimization of the subsequent textile processes will target yarns withsuitable properties, consisting of 100% hemp or blends with other sustainablefibers. The TPoC will be realized on versatile pilot-scale equipment which willassure, at a later stage, quick adoption and upscaling to industrial equipmentwidely available in Europe, with minimal investment costs. Main stakeholders (i.e. fiber processors and spinning mills) will be engaged in the process development and technical, aesthetical andeconomical expectations of customers will be mapped and taken into account inthe prototype design. The stakeholders’ willingness to change / pay forsustainable alternatives will be investigated. Various valorization paths willbe considered, with an initial preference for patent licenses. The IP landscapewill therefore be thoroughly examined.

Keywords:yarns, short fibers, Cannabis sativa L., industrial hemp, textile processing

Disciplines:Textiles

Project type:Service project